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Why Is Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong Tea So Popular Among Enthusiasts?

The reason is simple: both the quality of the tea and the processing techniques are exceptionally high.

High-quality Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea is often produced at tea gardens located at elevations of over 1,000 meters. Tea harvested in high mountains has a denser liquid and a higher aroma. The strong sunlight during the day and the very low temperatures at night slow down the growth of the tea, resulting in high-quality leaves. Additionally, the Fenghuang Mountain and surrounding areas have many tea trees that are hundreds of years old. Tea made from these ancient trees has a rich aftertaste and an aroma that permeates the body.

Since 2010, I have visited Fenghuang Mountain in Chaozhou, Guangdong Province, every year to source high-quality Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea. Although this tea is not well-known in Japan, from a professional standpoint, it can be considered one of the most elegant teas in China, embodying the pinnacle of tea processing technology.

Introduction to Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong Tea

When it comes to Chinese Oolong tea, the famous teas from Fujian Province's Wuyi Mountain and Anxi come to mind. Wuyi Mountain's rock tea is a symbol of high-quality tea in China. However, there is also a very famous Oolong tea called Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea in Chaozhou, Guangdong Province. Chaozhou is considered the birthplace of Oolong tea, and its history with Oolong tea is long and esteemed, representing one of China's major Oolong tea production areas.

Tea with Sweet Fruity and Floral Aromas

Unlike the heavily roasted Wuyi Oolong tea, Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea has a very sweet, fruity, and floral aroma. First-time drinkers might even mistake it for flavored tea.

Besides the superior tea processing techniques, the high quality of the raw tea leaves is also notable. High-quality Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea is produced from tea gardens located at elevations around 1,000 meters, using pesticide-free and fertilizer-free cultivation of trees that are hundreds of years old. This results in tea with a wonderful floral and fruity aroma, a long-lasting aftertaste, and a rich flavor that permeates the body.

The Origin of Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong Tea

Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea is produced in Fenghuang Town, Chaozhou, Guangdong Province. Historically, the famous old trees are found in a place called Wudong Mountain. This mountain is higher than the surrounding mountains, with tea gardens located at elevations of around 1,200-1,300 meters. At HOJO, we primarily select tea from Wudong Mountain to ensure high quality.

However, excellent tea is also produced in other mountains besides Wudong Mountain, where many old trees exist. In recent years, the price of Wudong Mountain tea has soared due to its growing fame, especially for the ancient trees. As a result, HOJO is also focusing on the surrounding mountains of Wudong.

Misconceptions About Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong Tea Being Bitter or Astringent

Many customers comment that they find Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea too bitter or astringent. However, spring-harvested Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea has no bitterness or astringency.

The reason for this misconception is that most Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea available in the general market is from the second, summer, or autumn harvests. Tea harvested later in the season is often more bitter and astringent compared to spring-harvested tea. This is because late-season tea grows faster and has higher yields, making it cheaper. Most of the exported tea falls into this category, leading to the misconception that Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea is bitter and astringent.

Moreover, high-quality Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea is cultivated at elevations above 600 meters. The tea trees' age and the absence of fertilizers are also crucial quality factors. Fertilizer-free cultivation allows the tea to grow slowly, enhancing its flavor and aroma. It also results in lower nitrogen levels in the leaves, making the tea more resistant to pests and reducing the need for pesticides.

Thus, high-elevation, old tree, fertilizer-free spring-harvested Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea is not bitter or astringent but rather mellow and sweet, with no astringency at all.

However, such high-quality tea is very expensive, making it difficult to sell in the general market. Consequently, lower elevation, conventionally grown teas are more commonly available internationally. These teas are often younger, high-yielding trees grown with plenty of fertilizers, resulting in stronger bitterness and astringency.

The Meaning of Dan Cong

The term "Dan Cong" often appears with Phoenix Oolong tea, such as in the name Phoenix Dan Cong or Phoenix ○○ Dan Cong. Originally, "Dan Cong" means a single tree. However, this term is no longer used in that sense.

In the case of Phoenix Oolong, the tea is classified into numerous small batches based on the age of the tea trees, the characteristic aroma, and the quality of the aroma. These small batches are referred to as "Dan Cong." Tea made from a single tree is called "Dan Zhu Cha."

What Is Lao Cong?

"Lao Cong" refers to tea harvested from old trees in the Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea category. However, the definition of Lao Cong varies. Generally, tea trees over 50 years old are called Lao Cong. At HOJO, some Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea comes from trees that are several hundred years old. Lao Cong tea has a deeper richness (aftertaste) and feels very soft in the mouth. However, the altitude is also an important quality factor, and low-elevation Lao Cong tea has less value.

Single Tree Tea (Dan Zhu Cha)

The most expensive and rarest type of Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea is the single tree tea (Dan Zhu Cha). As the name suggests, it is harvested from a single tree. However, which tree to select is up to the producer. Therefore, building a relationship with an honest producer and having the ability to assess quality are crucial. Single tree tea is also a Dan Cong, and when it is from an old tree, it is typically labeled as Phoenix Dan Cong Lao Cong ○○ Single Tree.

Cultivation Close to Nature for Deep Flavor

In Fenghuang Mountain, the tea trees are not planted in a neatly arranged manner but grow randomly like wild trees. Quality tea is rarely pruned, and non-pruned trees have fewer leaves, appearing sparse compared to younger trees.

The Relationship Between Quality and Old Trees

Why Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong Tea Is Not Well-Known

Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea is one of China's three major Oolong teas, along with Wuyi Oolong tea and Anxi Oolong tea. However, its global recognition is not as high. This is because many people from Fujian Province live in Southeast Asia, where they predominantly promote tea from their home province.

In Bangkok, Thailand, where many Chaozhou natives reside, Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea is more commonly found in the Chinese market.

The Production Process of Maocha (Crude Tea) for Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong Tea

Withering

After harvesting, the tea leaves are transported to the factory and spread on bamboo trays. They are then moved outside for sun withering from around 4 to 5 PM. Care must be taken to ensure the leaves do not overlap. Withering is done when the temperature is below 35°C, and the duration is adjusted according to the temperature.

Cooling

After sun withering, the leaves are cooled indoors for 1-2 hours. The thickness of the leaf piles is adjusted based on the ambient temperature. On dry days, the piles are thicker to prevent moisture loss. Indoor withering helps break down components within the leaves, increasing sweetness and contributing to the formation of aromatic compounds.

Fermentation

This process, also known as "peng-qing" or "lang-cha," is crucial for making Phoenix Oolong tea. About 5-6 kg of leaves are placed on bamboo trays. Two workers stand opposite each other and shake the tray 15 times, causing the leaves to wave. The leaves are then collected and piled into a concave shape for 2 hours.

In the second round of "peng-qing," the leaves are shaken 30 times, and in the third round, 45 times. Each "peng-qing" is followed by 2 hours of resting. From the fourth to the seventh round, the process is done with bamboo drums, with about 2 hours of resting in between. This creates minor bruising along the edges of the leaves, initiating the enzymatic oxidation process. Unlike black tea, where the entire leaf is oxidized, Phoenix Oolong tea undergoes partial oxidation, resulting in less astringency and a sweet, floral aroma.

The degree of fermentation is adjusted based on the quality and intensity of the aroma from the leaves. Typically, during the first 1-2 rounds of "peng-qing," the leaves emit a grassy aroma. By the 3-4 rounds, the aroma becomes sweeter. When the leaves start to smell fruity, usually by the 5-6 rounds, the "peng-qing" process is complete.

Pan-Frying and Rolling

The leaves are pan-fried at high temperatures to quickly deactivate the enzymes, minimizing quality degradation. While the leaves are still hot, they are rolled. Alternating between rolling and heating prevents the leaves from breaking.

The rolling process is done manually, shaping the leaves while rolling. As the leaves lose moisture through pan-frying, they become more pliable and can be shaped manually. This process removes 20-30% of the moisture from the leaves, and the moisture that exudes during rolling coats the leaf surface, adding luster and strength.

Charcoal Roasting to Enhance Sweet Baked Aromas

The most notable characteristic of Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea is its sweet, fruity, and floral aroma. Many believe this aroma is solely due to fermentation, but that's not the case.

Immediately after fermentation and drying, Phoenix Dan Cong Oolong tea has a very green aroma, similar to fresh green Anxi Tie Guan Yin. This stage is referred to as Maocha, akin to "raw tea" in Japan.

The tea undergoes a charcoal roasting process, which is essential for creating the unique aroma of Phoenix Dan Cong. Charcoal roasting does not impart a smoky or burnt aroma. Skilled artisans roast the tea at around 100°C, enhancing the clarity of the aroma and boosting the fruity notes, similar to slowly baking a cheesecake in the oven.