More detailed than Wikipedia! The Complete Guide to Pu-erh
What defines the quality of Pu-erh tea? How do we choose the right quality? Every year, I regularly visit Yunnan and stay there for a few weeks. In this article, I would like to share my experiences with you.
What is Pu-erh Tea?
Historically, Pu-erh tea was produced by minority ethnic groups for their own consumption and sometimes exported to Tibet, Mongolia, and Southeast Asia. Pu-erh tea was an important trade commodity, carried and traded for horses or other goods along "The Ancient Tea Route" (茶馬古道), sometimes referred to as the second Silk Road.
Xishuang Banna: A Famous Pu-erh Tea Production Area
Xishuang Banna is situated at the southern end of Yunnan, bordering Myanmar, Vietnam, and Laos. The name "Xishuang Banna" originates from the Thai language. The ancient Tea and Horse route started from Yiwu (易武) in southern Xishuang Banna, continuing north. Pu-erh (普洱) town, a hub for tea trading, gives Pu-erh tea its name.
Four Major Regions in Yunnan Producing Pu-erh Tea
Xishuang Banna is renowned for Pu-erh tea due to its historical significance. However, other regions in Yunnan also produce Pu-erh tea, especially in mountainous areas like Wu Liang Shan (无量山), Ai Lao Shan (哀牢山), and Da Xue Shan (大雪山), and along rivers like the Mekong River. The four major Pu-erh tea-producing regions are Xishuang Banna (西双版納), Lin Cang (臨滄), Pu-erh (普洱), and Chang Ning (昌寧).
The History of Pu-erh Tea
The history of Pu-erh tea spans 700–800 years. Despite the presence of ancient tea trees over 1,000 years old, Pu-erh tea, as known today, began during the Ming dynasty (about 700–800 years ago). Ripe Pu-erh tea, however, was developed in the 1970s.
The Pu-erh Boom
Pu-erh tea gained popularity in the past decade, with collectors from Guangzhou, Hong Kong, and Taiwan fueling the boom. By 2006–2007, the market was flooded with various-quality teas as prices soared. The market crash in 2008 eliminated low-quality teas, making now an ideal time to purchase Pu-erh tea.
Two Types of Pu-erh Tea
Pu-erh tea includes two main categories: "Raw Pu-erh Tea" and "Ripe Pu-erh Tea." Beginners usually prefer ripe Pu-erh, while experts and collectors favor raw Pu-erh. These two types of tea are completely different in their processing methods.
Raw Pu-erh Tea
Raw Pu-erh tea has a long history and was traded along The Ancient Tea Route. It is highly sought after by tea collectors.
Freshly produced raw Pu-erh tea leaves, known as Mao-cha. Raw Pu-erh tea is semi-fermented, with yellowish-green leaves.
Ripe Pu-erh Tea
Ripe Pu-erh tea was developed in 1973–1974 at Kunming Tea Factory (昆明茶厂), inspired by ancient dark tea processing methods. The fermentation process involves microbiological activity, resulting in dark brown tea leaves with a mellow taste and a flavor similar to dried Chinese dates. Ripe Pu-erh is more popular in overseas markets.
Understanding the Process of Raw Pu-erh Tea
Tea Plucking Standard
The process of making raw Pu-erh tea is similar to that of green tea but differs in plucking standards. For Pu-erh, one bud and 3–4 leaves are plucked, contributing to its floral and fruity flavors due to the richness in polyphenols and minerals.
Pan-frying Process
Pan-frying deactivates enzymes in the tea leaves, but not completely, allowing some enzymes to remain active. This differs from the intense steaming used in Japanese green tea, which fully deactivates enzymes. Chinese green tea is also pan-fried at very high temperatures to deactivate enzymes. Compared to green tea, for making raw Pu-erh tea, a larger amount of tea leaves (5–7kg) is put into a pan, and the pan-frying is done at a much lower temperature than for green tea. This causes steam to be generated from the tea leaves themselves during the pan-frying process, which helps slowly deactivate the enzymes in the tea leaves. Skillfully pan-fried tea allows the steam to gradually permeate, preventing a sharp rise in temperature, while simultaneously inducing enzyme fermentation, resulting in slight fermentation within the tea leaves. However, some tea merchants prefer tea pan-fried at high temperatures similar to green tea, and there are many teas on the market that are not significantly different from green tea in terms of the final product. When pan-fried at high temperatures, the tea leaves emit a strong aroma, but the taste tends to be sharp and lacks richness, with pronounced bitterness and astringency.
Sunshine drying, rather than hot air drying, allows the very small amount of remaining enzymes in the stems to get activated, aiding slight fermentation and making the tea more flavorful.
Storage of Raw Pu-erh
Freshly made raw Pu-erh tea leaves are still green. Over time, the leaves turn yellow but should not turn brown if stored properly. The enjoyment of raw Pu-erh comes from its evolving flavors over time, with the same batch tasting different based on storage methods and duration.
Understanding the Process of Making Ripe Pu-erh Tea
Raw Pu-erh Tea as the Base for Ripe Pu-erh Tea
Ripe Pu-erh tea production begins with processing fresh tea leaves into raw Pu-erh, which then undergoes post-fermentation. In other words, raw Pu-erh tea is used as the raw material for making ripe Pu-erh tea.
Two Stages of Fermentation
Initially, raw Pu-erh tea is piled, sprinkled with water, and covered to maintain humidity. Bacteria such as actinomycete facilitate fermentation, raising the temperature up to 70–80°C. The tea is periodically mixed to even out moisture. After several weeks, fermentation is stopped, and the temperature decreases.
Next, the tea leaves are spread on the floor, allowing yeast and mold to break down the components, drying the leaves. If the tea is piled too thick or dried with hot air, the flavor diminishes.
Cha-tou
During the fermentation process by actinomycetes, the mycelium produced by the microorganisms causes the tea to form clumps. These clumps are called Cha Tou, which means "tea head" in Chinese. Cha Tou forms in a state where it contains moisture inside, creating an anaerobic environment within. This unique condition leads to a distinctive aging process, resulting in a very unique flavor from Cha Tou.
Tea with Earthy Flavor
Many people have experienced ripe Pu-erh tea that smells moldy or earthy. However, these flavors are not due to issues with fermentation but rather the raw materials used. When farmers process Pu-erh tea in a hurry during rainy weather, for example, the tea can end up with a burnt smell due to improper heat control. If such raw Pu-erh tea is used as a material and undergoes microbial fermentation, it can surprisingly result in ripe tea with moldy or earthy flavors. This type of flavor is called "camphor flavor." In some regions, including Southeast Asia, this flavor is actually preferred. Consequently, some factories have started using intentionally fumigated raw materials to produce ripe Pu-erh tea with a camphor flavor.
Five Important Principles in Defining the Quality of Pu-erh Tea
These principles apply not only to Pu-erh tea but to all kinds of teas: the intensity of aftertaste, body, flavor profile, process defects, and freshness.
The Intensity of Aftertaste
Aftertaste refers to the taste felt in the throat that lingers, giving depth to the tea. Terms like "aftertaste," "depth of taste," "softness," "smoothness," "thickness," "lingering taste," "long-lasting taste," or "long finishing" describe this sensation. In Chinese, it is called Hou-yun (喉韻), Hui-gan (回甘), or sometimes Cha qi (茶気). The intensity of the aftertaste is influenced by the minerals in the tea. In other words, the higher the quality of the raw materials, the stronger the aftertaste.
Body
Body is often confused with aftertaste or physical texture. It refers to the fullness, boldness, width of flavor, roundness, total mouth-feel, and concentration of flavor that spreads in the mouth. A stronger body enhances flavor intensity and mouth-feel. Alkaline minerals like calcium, sodium, and potassium contribute to the body of tea. Additionally, silicon also affects the body. Generally, tea grown in areas with terrain formed by the uplift of the sea produces full-bodied tea.
Flavor Profile
Flavor defines the character of tea and does not indicate quality. It is similar to the color of a photograph, which varies with different cameras or lenses but does not define their quality. While selecting Pu-erh tea, the focus is on aftertaste and body first, followed by flavor. Improperly fermented teas with moldy or earthy flavors are immediately eliminated according to our criteria.
Process Defects
Process defects include issues in plucking, handling, processing, compression, and drying. Grading involves minus points for defects such as smoky flavor, damaged leaves, overheated or burnt leaves, excessive fermentation, and insufficient drying. While perfect tea is ideal, minor defects may be acceptable if the price is right. Some defects, like over pan-frying, become unnoticeable with aging.
Freshness
Freshness relates to the condition of tea during storage, logistics, and handling. Even well-made tea can produce a stale flavor if not properly stored. Contrary to belief, Pu-erh tea can oxidize, resulting in a stale flavor. Well-matured Pu-erh tea gives a sweet, fruity flavor, similar to sugar cane, honeyed fruit, or dried fruit.
Factors Determining the Quality of Raw Materials
Understanding the factors contributing to strong aftertaste and intense body is key. Minerals like iron and alkaline minerals like calcium and potassium influence these qualities. Identifying quality Pu-erh involves evaluating criteria such as altitude, soil condition, plucking frequency, age of the tea tree, agricultural practices, and quality year.
Altitude
Higher altitude benefits tea by providing stronger sunlight and cooler temperatures at night, resulting in richer flavor and stronger aftertaste. Plants absorb carbon dioxide and perform photosynthesis during the day, while at night, they absorb oxygen and carry out respiration, consuming energy. In other words, high temperatures and strong sunlight during the day lead to active production, while cooler temperatures at night slow down consumption. This slow growth results in higher quality tea.
Soil Condition
Mineral composition in the soil affects aftertaste and body. Soil rich in iron, such as red soil and yellow clay, enhances the aftertaste, while soil containing alkaline metals and silicon improves the body of the tea. On the other hand, sandy soil produces tea with lower mineral content.
Frequency of Plucking
Tea that contains more apical buds is of higher quality. Therefore, tea leaves plucked first are better, while leaves plucked about a week later contain more lateral buds, resulting in lower quality. Additionally, if tea is plucked multiple times throughout the year, the minerals in the tea plants and roots become diluted, leading to tea with a weaker taste. High-quality tea is plucked only once in the spring.
Age of the Tea Tree
Older tea trees with deep roots absorb more minerals, producing a stronger aftertaste. However, if fertilizer is applied, even old tea trees will produce tea with a weaker taste, similar to that of younger trees. To preserve the unique qualities of old tea trees, it is essential to cultivate them without using any fertilizer.
Agricultural Practice
Agricultural practices significantly impact tea quality. Traditional ecological farming methods keep tea healthy, but modern methods using fertilizers and herbicides degrade quality. Natural farming promotes slow growth, resulting in rich polyphenols and minerals. Natural farming avoids fertilizers and herbicides, promoting a healthy underground ecology. Slow-growing tea trees accumulate more polyphenols and minerals, producing higher-quality tea.
Pruning of Tea Trees
Modern agricultural practices include pruning to increase production. Pruned tea trees produce lower quality tea due to rapid growth and lower mineral content. Slower-growing, unpruned trees produce better-tasting tea. This is similar to the effect of multiple tea plucking sessions.
Quality Year
Like wine, tea quality varies by year. Dry, sunny weather produces better tea as trees grow slower and accumulate more minerals and organic substances. Knowing quality years helps in purchasing and stocking up on good tea. Yunnan's weather varies by region. For example, Xishuang Banna experienced a severe drought in 2010, reducing output but increasing quality.
Aging of Pu-erh Tea
Raw Pu-erh tea can be aged by storing it for a certain period. Properly aged raw Pu-erh tea develops a ripe fruit flavor. However, aging does not improve the quality; the quality depends solely on the raw materials. Aging only changes the flavor and mouth feel. It is recommended to adjust the aging period according to your preference.
Is the Aged Pu-erh Better?
Aged Pu-erh is sought after but its quality remains the same as freshly produced tea. Aging enhances flavor variety and mellowness but does not improve aftertaste or body. Preferences for aged Pu-erh vary by individual.
Why Do Tea Collectors Seek Aged Pu-erh from Famous Factories?
Until around the 1970s, tea in Yunnan Province was cultivated naturally without the use of fertilizers or pesticides, regardless of the region. This was because, at that time, the value of Yunnan tea was not widely recognized and it was considered a peripheral tea. Therefore, even the famous factories that produced Pu-erh tea cakes during that time used only raw materials from natural cultivation. Naturally, if you drink tea from that era today, it has a strong aftertaste and tastes very delicious. However, people who have tasted this tea often mistakenly believe that its quality is due to aging, equating aging with quality improvement. Unfortunately, even if the tea produced by these factories today is aged for many years, it will never match the tea from the 1970s. This is because the quality of the tea produced today is completely different from that of the past. On the other hand, even today, in remote mountainous areas, there are still tea trees cultivated without fertilizers, as in the past. Pu-erh tea made from these tea leaves has a very long and strong aftertaste, allowing you to enjoy an excellent flavor even without aging.
Correct Technique for Aging Pu-erh
Proper aging of raw Pu-erh requires knowledge and skill. Storing tea in humid conditions causes spoilage, resulting in moldy or earthy flavors. Open storage is suitable only in dry environments like Yunnan. Ideal maturation requires no oxygen. Storing Pu-erh in tightly sealed or vacuum-sealed bags facilitates maturation without exposure to oxygen.
Various Shapes of Pu-erh Tea
Freshly Produced Pu-erh Tea in Loose Leaves
Pu-erh tea is originally in loose-leaf form, called "mao cha" (毛茶). Loose leaves are easier to judge for quality. Compressed tea, shaped for logistic convenience, is less bulky and matures better with less exposure to air.
Why Most Pu-erh Tea Cakes Weigh 357g
In China, the standard weight unit is 1 Jin (斤), equivalent to 500g. A stack of seven 357g Pu-erh tea cakes weighs 2,499g or about 5 Jin, a convenient round number.
Shape Does Not Determine Quality
Tea shape is determined by client requirements and does not affect quality. Mini tuo cha, for example, is convenient for single brewing and does not indicate lower quality despite misconceptions.
Compressing Pu-erh Tea
Pu-erh tea is compressed into shapes like pizza. The process involves weighing tea leaves, placing them in a mold, steaming, packing into a cotton bag, and compressing. Proper drying is crucial to avoid moisture damage.
The following photos were taken at a large factory. Similar processes are carried out at smaller factories and farms.
Weighing tea leaves.
Placing tea leaves into the metal mold.
Steam is applied from the bottom of the mold. The steaming process only takes 10–20 seconds.
Softened leaves are repacked into a cotton bag, squeezed, and shaped like a piece of pizza.
The handling must follow a very smooth motion to maintain consistency in shape. A skilled tea maker takes less than 10 seconds to complete it.
A stone or a vice is used to compress the tea leaves. Generally, using a vice results in a more uniform finish.
Compressed tea is kept on the shelf and dried. If drying is not effectively carried out, the tea will be damaged due to the remaining moisture inside the tea leaves. There are two methods for drying tea cakes: natural drying and drying with an electric heater. The drying method dramatically affects the result and significantly influences the subsequent aging process. We prefer natural drying.
This is a raw Pu-erh tea. The tea can be processed into any shape provided that a mold is available.
Epilogue
The joy of drinking Pu-erh tea is that we can indulge and discover different varieties of tea from various ages of tea trees. The taste, flavor and not to mention the aftertaste are precisely reflected from the Pu-erh tea's long history, its growing environment and the people who produce this tea. The history, culture, weather and land of Yunnan is concentrated in the Pu-erh tea. Another interesting fact about drinking Pu-erh tea is to enjoy its variation of flavour through aging. The flavour of Pu-erh tea varies as much as we change when time goes by. By customizing the flavour according to your own preference, you will be a part of manufacturing it. It is a delight to serve Pu-erh tea of various flavours at different occasions for distinctive guests. Do share these experiences with us by deepening your understanding and knowledge.